Those of you that follow me on
Facebook or Twitter @nealasher will be
aware that throughout the winter I read a lot of science articles – usually
about ten every morning until my mind has warmed up a bit. Of the many things
I’ve been following with interest is the evolution of the 3D printer. This is
one of those items I’ve mulled over getting for myself, and I may yet buy one
(though a quadrotor, satellite watch and underwater camera are first on my
shopping list). It was, therefore, great to see that one of my fans,
JeffPerkins, has a 3D printer and has been posting his progress with it on
Facebook. It was even more enjoyable to see him having a crack at the prador,
so I asked him if he could do a post on that here.
Jeff Perkins:
For the sake of coherence, I thought I would
restrict the pictures to just the crab print, as it gives a better idea of the
process using just one.
I have included a picture of the design stage –
adding the bits together in Blender (a 3d design and animation program). I pull
the different pieces in there to re-size, rotate etc and weld together. Once
done, I export the final piece into a .stl file, which is pretty much the
standard for transferring models between programs for 3d printing. .stl comes
from "STereoLithography", and the file type can be used across many
types of printers and laser cutters.
I then load the .stl file into ReplicatorG - this
is one of a number of programs that take the model file and convert it into
GCode, which is the scripting language 3d printers use to make the prints. The
model can be re-sized and rotated about to make it fit on the print bed better
as necessary. From there, you generate the GCode, selecting things such as the
speed of printing, the amount of infill (a lattice support inside the
structure, 10% gives good support and saves a lot of time and plastic, as
opposed to making a solid model). The temperature can also be selected here,
and this has a lot of bearing on print quality because differing plastics
require different temperatures to print well - even different batches of the
same plastic can require slightly different temps for optimum printing.
Once this has all been selected, the computer
generates the script - this can take anywhere from a minute or two, to hours
for a really large, complex model. I then load the resulting file on an SD card
and print from that in the printer - you can connect it up to the computer, but
I have found it much
less fiddly to print from the card and not connect
the printer to the computer at all. Not all printers offer the SD card
capability, unfortunately.
From there, the printer prints! I had crabby print
upside-down after the first print. I tried with him the right way up but failed
badly – the legs came off mid-print, things were getting warped and it was a
mess. It printed well upside-down, the only unfortunate thing being that the
support mesh leaves a lot of marks on the surface it touches. For a really good
print I am going to have to configure it to print right-side-up and have the
support structure leave the marks underneath.
But that is the joy of 3d printing! It is a
technology very much in its infancy and in the experimental stage, and even an
unsuccessful print is a good print, as you can always take something away from
it to improve the next one.
I hope the above info and the pictures is of some
use to you, and the sort of thing you were after.
Let me know if you want anything else and I can
send it off. I will be doing a lot more work on crabby in the next few weeks to
convert it into something a lot more like the Prador descriptions in your
books, hopefully. I'll let you know how it goes.
...
Thank you, Jeff.